on nourishing yourself + lemony parsnip and white bean soup

Hello, beautiful people!

I’m back home in Seattle after our trip to Paris and Brussels and feeling super excited for the new year! I always forget how much good it does me to step out of my day-to-day routine and how travel energizes me like nothing else. There was a piece of me that didn't want to leave town before our trip. I could imagine nothing better than spending the holidays catching up on sleep and work. What the eff was I thinking?!? 

This trip was one of the best ever. I feel like I might say that after every trip, but somehow it’s always true. I walked all over the city. I ate amazing food. I got enough sleep for the first time in ages. I connected with some awesome people doing very cool things. I am starting 2017 feeling full of creativity and inspired to bring new projects to life! (Want to come with me to Paris next time? Click here.)

The benefits of our trip have carried over into my routine back in Seattle as well. December was pretty disastrous in the self-care department. But since I’ve been home, I’ve been eating better, going to sleep at a reasonable hour and exercising again. All of which makes me realize how important nourishing myself physically and emotionally is for creativity. 

Before I dragged my ass onto our flight to Paris, I was interested in precisely nothing. I was feeling seriously burnt out and uninspired. Photography: don’t care. Writing: nope. Cooking: hardly. I had slid into old habits of pushing myself to the edge of my mental and physical limits with work, shitty food and a sleep deficit no amount of coffee could compensate for. 

Now that I’m home and feeling excited to create again, I’m writing this post as a reminder to myself (and maybe to you, too) that when we stop taking care of ourselves, everything else falls out of whack.

In 2017, I aim to nourish myself with good food, sleep, connection and travel. One way I keep myself eating well is to fix a big pot of soup for the week. This Lemony Parsnip and White Bean Soup is one of my favorites. It’s got all the good stuff: kale, beans, garlic, olive oil. Simple, hearty and comforting, it’s perfect for staving off the winter blues or a nasty cold. As part of my intention to stay healthier, happier and saner in 2017, I’ll be cooking up a pot (or two or three) of this warming soup in the new year.

xo,

Olaiya

P.S. I’d love to hear back in the comments how you’ll be taking care of yourself in 2017. And for those of you looking to spark your creativity through a retreat in Paris next year, click here!

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Lemony Parsnip and White Bean Soup

• 1 lemon
• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus additional to serve
• 1 medium leek, halved lengthwise and sliced into thin half moons
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper
• 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch rounds
• 4 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into ¼-inch rounds
• 1 bay leaf
• 6 cups vegetable stock, chicken stock or bean cooking liquid (if you cooked your own beans)
• 1 bunch kale (I like lacinato), stems removed and torn into 2-inch pieces
• A nice hunk of parmesan rind (optional)
• 2 cups cooked white beans (preferably homemade)
• Grated parmesan (optional), to serve

*Notes: You can leave out the parmesan for a vegan soup. 

- When I have time, I like to cook this soup a little longer to let the lemon peels soften and then serve the soup with the peels left in. When cooked long enough, they're almost like preserved lemons.

- For a heartier meal, I sometimes serve this soup with pasta in it. I like conchighlie, trofie, gemeli and orecchiete in particular, but any bite-sized pasta will do. In order to keep the pasta from getting soggy in the soup, I always cook it separately until al dente, then place it in the individual bowls and top it with hot soup just before serving. I think this soup would also be lovely served with a grain like farro or barley.

- For a non-vegetarian version, shredding some cooked chicken into the soup is delicious.

Use a peeler to cut 4 1-inch-wide by 3-inch-long strips of zest from the lemon. Once the zest is removed, juice the lemon. Set the juice and zest aside.

In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the leek, garlic and a generous pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leek is translucent and soft, but not browned, 5-8 minutes. Add the carrots, parsnips, bay and lemon zest and saute for another 4-5 minutes, until the parsnips begin to soften.

Add the stock, kale, parmesan rind and beans to the pot and bring the soup to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook gently until the kale and parsnips are tender, about 10-15 minutes. Stir in lemon juice to taste and season the soup with salt and pepper. Cook for a few more minutes to allow the flavors to come together.

To serve, remove the parmesan rind, strips of lemon zest and bay leaf from the pot. Ladle the soup into serving bowls. Drizzle a bit of olive oil over the soup and sprinkle with parmesan (if using) and some more black pepper. Serve hot.

Makes 6 servings.

Inspired by this recipe by Heather over at Flourishing Foodie.

salt-roasted beef with lemon-hazelnut pesto, pears and celery root

Hello from Paris!

I hope you had a beautiful Christmas. I was a bit under the weather/jet-lagged, so Beau and I had a pretty mellow holiday: a walk over to Notre Dame to hear the Christmas bells toll, a leisurely stroll through the Luxembourg gardens with a stop for coffee at the Café de Flore. A seafood extravaganza for two and early to bed. We didn’t even pop the bottle of champagne we bought!

But I’m planning to make up for our rather subdued Christmas celebration in a few days. As far as I’m concerned, there’s no better place to ring in the new year than the city of light. Beau and I have a table booked at one of our favorite restaurants. There will be oysters. There will be champagne. There will be all manner of other deliciousness and then there will be heading out into the chill to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle over the city. 

But before all that, let’s talk about your New Year’s Eve dinner. 

If I were home, I’d be fixing this Salt-Roasted Beef with Lemon-Hazelnut Pesto, Pears and Celery Root. My friend Kyle and I served this at the pop-up dinner we hosted earlier this month. This beauty is Kyle’s invention. How he comes up with such creative dishes, I have no idea. Also, it takes him about two seconds to whip up an entire menu. Without cracking a cookbook. While I am jealous, I am also thrilled to be the beneficiary of his chef-brain. And even more thrilled that I got to eat this dish three times in one month: once while we were testing it, once at the dinner and again when I shot it for the blog with my friend Carrie. 

This roast sits at the intersection of easy and impressive. Exactly what you want on a holiday where you should be sipping champagne with your guests instead of sweating away in the kitchen. The salt crust seasons the meat while sealing in all the delicious juices. The roasted pears and celery root are a meltingly soft, subtly sweet base for the beef--far sexier than mashed potatoes. And the bright, herby pesto makes it all sing. Plus, how often do you get to smash open your meal with a hammer? Very exciting stuff.

However you decide to ring in 2017, I hope it brings you joy. Thank you for following along here and for all your kind comments and emails over the past year. You make this adventure I’m on so much more fun! 

With much love,

Olaiya

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Salt-Roasted Beef with Lemon-Hazelnut Pesto, Pears and Celery Root

• 2-3 lb boneless cross-rib roast (also known as a flat iron roast)
• 6 cups kosher salt
• 3 egg whites
• ½ cup cold water
• Freshly-grated black pepper
• 1 recipe Lemon-Hazelnut Pesto (below)
• 1 recipe Roasted Pears and Celery Root (below)

Lemon-Hazelnut Pesto

• ½ cup hazelnuts

• ¼ cup mint, gently packed

• ¼ cup parsley, gently packed

• ¼ cup cilantro, gently packed

• 2 tablespoons dill

• 1 preserved lemon

• ¼ cup minced shallot (about 1 large)

• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

• Juice of 1 lemon

• ½ teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 cup hazelnut or olive oil

Pears and Celery Root

• 2 slightly underripe pears

• 1 large celery root

• Extra-virgin olive oil

• Kosher salt

*Notes: My wonderful neighborhood butcher turned me onto the boneless cross-rib (or flat iron) roast called for in this recipe. I love this cut because it’s flavorful and a great value when you’re feeding a crowd. It does have more connective tissue and marbling in it than some other cuts (sort of like a prime rib roast). If that’s not your thing, you might want to consider a different cut of beef. They’re considerably more expensive, but a tenderloin roast or strip roast never disappoint. 

- If you roast or grill a larger cut of meat even once a year, I recommend you purchase a corded meat thermometer like this one. You stick the probe in the middle of your roast, while the display sits on the countertop by your oven. Set the desired temperature and it will beep when your meat is ready. No opening the oven door and letting out the precious heat. No guessing as to when your roast will be the exact doneness you like. A corded thermometer will take your roast game to a whole new level. 

Remove the beef from the fridge about an hour before you want to cook it so it can warm up slightly.

Preheat your oven to 375°F. Spread the hazelnuts on a rimmed sheet pan and toast until the nuts turn golden-brown and fragrant, 8-12 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. When cool, roughly chop the nuts or crush them with the side of a chef’s knife or with a mortar and pestle (no need to peel). Place the nuts in a medium bowl. Roughly chop the herbs and add them to the bowl. Cut the preserved lemon into quarters and scoop out the flesh and toss or reserve for another use. Finely dice the peel and add it to the bowl. Add the minced shallot, lemon zest and juice, salt and olive oil and stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings to your liking. Set aside to let the flavors come together.

To prepare the beef, mix the salt, egg whites and water in a large bowl until the salt is evenly moistened. Place a thin layer of the salt mixture just wider than your beef roast on a rimmed sheet pan. Place the beef on top of this layer and generously sprinkle with black pepper. Use the rest of the salt mixture to cover the roast, pressing to seal the beef in. Place in the oven and roast to desired doneness: 120°F for rare, 125°F for medium rare, 130°F for medium. Remove from the oven and set aside to rest, without breaking open the salt crust. (Don't worry if the crust has a few cracks in it when it comes out of the oven; that's fine.) Rest the beef for at least 15 minutes before you crack open the crust and slice it. 

While the beef is roasting, prepare the pears and celery root. Remove the skin and any roots from the celery root and slice into ⅓-inch thick pieces. Core the pears and slice into ⅓-inch thick pieces. Place the pears and celery root on a parchment-lined rimmed sheet pan. Sprinkle generously with salt and  toss with olive oil to coat. When the roast is about 10 degrees under the desired doneness, place the pears and celery root in the oven. When you remove the beef, increase the oven temperature to 475°F and roast until the pears and celery root are tender and golden brown, turning occasionally, 30-35 minutes. 

When the pears and celery root are done, crack open the salt crust on the beef using a rolling pin, meat mallet or hammer. Brush the salt off the beef and slice. Transfer the roasted pears and celery root and the beef to a serving platter. Spoon some of the pesto over the beef and serve immediately, passing the rest of the pesto alongside. 

Makes 6-8 servings.

Recipe by Kyle Wisner

simple suppers: spaghetti with roasted cauliflower, currants, pine nuts, chile and sardines

You’ll be happy to hear I’m (mostly) done complaining about being back under grey Northwest skies. Shaking the nasty head cold I came home with has helped brighten my mood. As did seeing so many fantastic folks from the Seattle food community at Book Larder’s 5th birthday bash last night. 

The food was mightily on point, too. My friend Kyle made ridiculously delicious lamb meatballs bathed in some sort of creamy tomato business that everyone was swooning over. And pastry chef extraordinaire, Rachael Coyle, baked a carrot cake studded with dates and nuts and layered with the fluffiest mascarpone filling that made me lose all restraint. (I may or may not have gone back for thirds.)

Also, a brute of a storm is rolling into town this weekend. There’s talk of gale-force winds and power outages. Beau and I have battened down our hatches and are planning to spend the next couple days indoors playing cards, reading, watching movies and cooking (as long as we have power), which sounds like the perfect way to spend a blustery fall weekend.

Another thing that boosted my mood this week is this spicy spaghetti with roasted cauliflower, currants, pine nuts and sardines. This humble, improvised dinner was just the sort of comfort food I needed. Creamy, nutty and salty-sweet, it was a happy coincidence of pantry staples that yielded a whole much greater than the sum of its parts. A sort of weeknight dinner alchemy. And the best part is that it somehow managed to taste even better today when we had the leftovers for lunch. 

Good ingredients are key here. Especially, the sardines. I used a can of the amazing sardines I brought back from Portugal. I recommend searching out good quality Portuguese, Spanish or Italian sardines for this dish. (A few mashed up anchovy fillets would work in a pinch.) And for those of you who are not fans of canned fish--I hear you. I would never open a can of sardines and eat them with a fork like Beau does. That’s far too fishy for me! But against a backdrop of earthy roasted cauliflower, sweet-tart dried currants, salty parmesan and toothsome spaghetti, sardines lend just the right amount of briny umami to round out this dish. 

I cannot say precisely whether it was seeing so many friends this week, or the mood-boosting properties of all the sardines I ate, or the excitement of preparing for this weekend’s storm, or possibly even the carrot cake-induced sugar rush I experienced yesterday that lifted my mood. What I can say is that I’m grateful to be feeling more at home in our little home. And that this pasta is my new favorite cold-weather comfort food.

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Spaghetti with Roasted Cauliflower, Currants, Pine Nuts, Chile and Sardines

• 1 medium head cauliflower
• 6-8 tablespoons good quality extra-virgin olive oil
• Sea salt or kosher salt, to taste
• 12 oz. dried spaghetti
• 3-4 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
• Generous pinch chile flakes (or to taste)
• ¼ cup capers, rinsed
• ¼ cup dried currants
• 1 can sardine filets (about 4 oz.)
• 1 cup finely grated parmesan, plus additional to garnish
• ½ cup toasted pine nuts

Preheat your oven to 450° F.

Wash and dry your cauliflower well. Remove any tough leaves and stalks and toss. Remove the tender, pale green leaves and set aside. Slice the cauliflower into ½-inch thick slices (the flat sides of sliced cauliflower make more uniform contact with the pan allowing the cauliflower to brown more evenly). Arrange the cauliflower and tender leaves in a single layer on a rimmed sheet pan (use parchment paper for easier clean-up if you want). Brush with 2-4 tablespoons of the olive oil. The amount you need will depend on the size of your cauliflower--you want it coated on all sides. Sprinkle with salt and roast until the cauliflower is just tender and nicely browned, about 20 minutes, turning once.  

While the cauliflower is roasting, bring a large pot of generously salted water (it should taste like the sea) to the boil. Add the spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta-cooking water. Drain the pasta and place it back in the pot. Add a tablespoon or so of the cooking water if necessary to keep it from sticking to the pot.

When the cauliflower is done, remove it from the oven and set aside. Heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and chile flakes and cook until fragrant, about a minute. Add the capers, currants and sardines. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often  until the ingredients are heated through. Smash the sardines with the back of a wooden spoon if necessary to break them up. Cut the cauliflower into bite-sized pieces and add it to the pot with the spaghetti along with the cheese and ½ cup of the reserved pasta water. Cook over low heat, stirring well, until the cheese has melted and formed a sauce with the pasta water. Taste and add a bit more salt if necessary and a bit more pasta water if it seems dry. Serve hot sprinkled with the toasted pine nuts and extra grated parmesan.

Makes 4 servings.